Removing the floor "tar"

njoconnor · Post by **njoconnor** » Sat Sep 29, 2012 1:54 pm

Started the old chisel work this morning. Definitely some rust under the edges of the "tar", but I'm getting clean white floor about 1 inch in, all around. Any recc's on whether to keep going and remove it all, or leave whatever still seems to be bonded/clean? Most of what I'm chiseling is actually still flexible.....

PS: I tried the hammer/flexing method......no results.....

4uall · Post by **4uall** » Sat Sep 29, 2012 1:59 pm

I would take it all out. I found some hidden discoveries in doing so. I used a standard dremel like tool. I have also see a lot of videos with dry ice and a BFH

http://forum.fiatspider.com/f08/viewtop ... &hilit=por

njoconnor · Post by **njoconnor** » Sat Sep 29, 2012 4:18 pm

I've got a dremel and a roto-zip...what kind of bit/attachment did you use? Already found one surprise hole (tiny). And....I only have to do the passenger side, since my restorer bud already replaced the driver's side floor. Pix when I remember to reduce the mp's in the camera.

4uall · Post by **4uall** » Sat Sep 29, 2012 4:43 pm

I used these

just need to keep an eye on it as it will heat up the tar due to the high rpm's/vibrations I used it like a scraper and did it in colder weather

njoconnor · Post by **njoconnor** » Sat Sep 29, 2012 9:03 pm

Thanks again. Just found a second pin hole, and I seem to have the rythym down with the ball peen and the cold chisels. But.....been thinking about one of those multi tiools for a while, so this may be the reason to pick one up!

RRoller123 · Post by **RRoller123** » Sun Sep 30, 2012 7:57 am

I bought a Sears "Multi-Master" a couple years ago for like 100 bucks instead of the real Multi-Master and it proves that you get what you pay for. It works ok, but nowhere near the power of the real one. It does have the advantage of being battery powered so it is more convenient onsite, but the battery clips are weak and I have to hold the battery in while working overhead. BUT the blades are ridiculously inexpensive so that makes up for a lot! Last time I bought them I think they were 2 for 14 bucks or something like that. The "real" ones are much more. Still use it regularly in my business.

NJFIAT1981 · Post by **NJFIAT1981** » Sun Sep 30, 2012 8:02 am

I've been using the Harbor Freight Multi-Tool that I picked up for $9.99 with the coupon. Does a pretty good job. Will finish the floor with the POR kit.

RRoller123 · Post by **RRoller123** » Sun Sep 30, 2012 8:12 am

You talking about the rotary tool or the oscillating one?

NJFIAT1981 · Post by **NJFIAT1981** » Sun Sep 30, 2012 8:43 am

Oscillating one. I used the flexable scraper and it gets under the tar. Does a pretty good job.

htchevyii · Post by **htchevyii** » Sun Sep 30, 2012 11:06 am

My "tar" was pretty brittle, I used a hammer and chisel. Has anyone ever tried one of the Spyder scrapers for a Sawsall? http://www.spyderproducts.com/toolpages/spyder-scraper/

RRoller123 · Post by **RRoller123** » Sun Sep 30, 2012 12:53 pm

NJFIAT1981 wrote:Oscillating one. I used the flexable scraper and it gets under the tar. Does a pretty good job.

I gotta check that out! At that price it is worth looking at. An original true Multi-Master of German manufacture used to cost about $400 when they first came out. Not sure what they are now, but probably less due to competition.

seabeelt · Post by **seabeelt** » Mon Oct 01, 2012 8:55 am

I bought one of thoes Fein tools ( the real one) for a different project, but you guys have given me an idea. BTW I just love the Fein. Very long cord, easy blade/attachment change, can't recommend it enough. It does what it says.

Wouldn't uses a sawsall for the floor goup removal, too hard to control in a tight space and you will just end up scraping it anyway.
r/

Exit98 · Post by **Exit98** » Mon Oct 01, 2012 9:55 am

When I did mine it was dried out enough that the hammer and chisel (and pounding the floor) did the job best.

But when I went to help out George (NJFIAT1981) his was softer and the technique didn't work. He's got the power scraper thing but still the soft tar doesn't want to let go easily. He’s got more to go.

I think the dry ice technique is worth a try. Need to get that stuff hard first.

RRoller123 · Post by **RRoller123** » Mon Oct 01, 2012 12:38 pm

[quote="seabeelt"]I bought one of thoes Fein tools ( the real one) for a different project, but you guys have given me an idea. BTW I just love the Fein. Very long cord, easy blade/attachment change, can't recommend it enough. It does what it says.

That Fein is a masterpiece of a tool, well worth the money if you work with it professionally . The Installer I use has one and I ask him to bring it to every job!

124JOE · Post by **124JOE** » Tue Oct 02, 2012 9:24 pm

when i had a fuel line leak inside the cabin it desolved some of the tar
just enuff to ruin the carpet
so when i peeled up the tar,i did all of it and repainted the floor
also i got some jute padding and new "menards"auto carpet

you can recover the floor with dynamat or somthing simalar,but reopen the vent holes in the floor
so it dosent hold water.

i have some metal to replace so for now no dynamat

Removing the floor "tar"

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