Has anyone used "liquid solder" to attach the ignition wires to the switch terminals (upper right corner of the picture)? Is there an alternative to using conventional solder? I am not crazy about laying upside down under the dash with a soldering gun and dripping solder. While I have tightened the female crimp-on fasteners they do loosen over time.
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Jim MacKenzie
1975 Fiat Spider Finest Italian Automotive Technology
The terminals are not made to solder. You may damage the switch by applying heat. Liquid solder isn't the answer. I would buy new spade connectors that fit and solder them to the wires and push them on. Spade connectors usually don't loosen up unless you push them on and off several times. Vibration shouldn't be an issue either unless they are worn ,bent or defective.
Agreed. The terminals are quite heavy on the Ignition Switch, and the amount of heat needed to solder them will likely compromise the internal workings. Stick with the push-on connectors, with the wires soldered to them if you wish.
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To the best of my knowledge most push on terminals are of the crimp style with a plastic or nylon jacket covering the area where the crimp is to be made. Heating these terminals to solder temps would cause them to out-gas and contaminate the solder. Also push type terminals are manufactured to have a spring type tension in their manufacturing process. Heat causes them to expand (open) and lose their strength. It is current flowing through your terminals that heated them and caused them to loosen up in the first place.
You would need to be sure you purchase solder push terminals if you want to solder the wires to the terminals.
Good quality crimp terminals are better than solder terminals in almost every application.
They market a line of liquid type solders for different applications. It is interesting, one short coming could be the cure time is in the area of 24-72 hours.
Soldering is much more difficult than many realize. The molecular bond between solder and copper takes place in the area of 350-450 degrees F. All the parts have to be this temp for the proper bonding called "wetting action" to occur. When this temperature is not reached a "cold solder" connection is made. The parts may appear to be physically stuck together but when current flows through the connection heat is generated and in time it can become intermittent. Nylon which is used in the manufacturing of so many after market electrical parts turns to a liquid at 450 degrees. Nylon can become pliable at lower temperatures. For this reason soldering anything molded in nylon is risky at best. Even using some sealing heat shrink tubing can cause nylon to deform.
I like your question about liquid solder and will be looking into some of its applications.