Cold start valve bypass?

Gotta love that wiring . . .
micbrody
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Your car is a: 1981 fiat 2000
Location: Munster, IN (Northwest Indiana near Chicago)

Re: Cold start valve bypass?

Post by micbrody »

I just re-read your first post; sounded like you totally electrically isolated CSI with a switch and still had starting problems. Does switch fix now work when car is warm?
micbrody
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Your car is a: 1981 fiat 2000
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Re: Cold start valve bypass?

Post by micbrody »

I just re-read that you did totally electrically switch TTS from CSI. Looking at electric schematic: looks like entire CSI/TTS is actively powered through connection at double relay post 86; and that post also is fed from ECU pin 4. The main wire that comes from post 86 to CSI/TTS is a light blue/white wire. I think if you specifically aim for this light blue/white wire, you will cut off all juice to CSI/TTS. The other light blue/white wire feeds off a common post on CSI where original light blue white wire initially goes. The system is eventually grounded at TTS to complete circuit. Maybe one of the components has failed with an extra ground to engine block, causing actuation of CSI (does not totally make sense/ but maybe some other funky re-wiring from another owner??? Connectors backwards? ) If you have an ohm meter , you can check for these aberrant grounds:
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploads1 ... 386505.jpg

Looks a lot easier than actuality because it is a TOTAL PAIN IN THE ASS to even get probes touching the TTS; let alone exchanging TTS. Maybe someone else on the board has a better way to get to this switch by removing something.........
spider2081
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Re: Cold start valve bypass?

Post by spider2081 »

Looks a lot easier than actuality because it is a TOTAL PAIN IN THE ASS to even get probes touching the TTS; let alone exchanging TTS. Maybe someone else on the board has a better way to get to this switch by removing something.........
The terminals of the Thermal Time Switch are available at the other end of the wires at the Cold Start Valve connector. If both the cold start valve and the Thermal Time Switch are disconnected the Cold Start Valve connector should have voltage on only one pin. That is the wire that connects to the Thermal Time Switch pin G The remaining wire in the Cold Start Valve connector is the wire that connects to the Thermal Time Switch Pin W. Reconnecting Just the Thermal Time Switch should allow the switch to be checked at the Cold Start Connector.
micbrody
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Re: Cold start valve bypass?

Post by micbrody »

Spider2081 does make a great point: that TTS stuff can be all tested via the connector to CSI. That would make it a lot easier!

I just took a look at my CSI connector. It has 3 wires going to it. Two of them must be the (1) "hot line" from from terminal 86/ECU pin4; (2) the wire that distributes the hot line to the TTS. I think if you were to put the double pole switch on these wires, you should totally be electrically isolating the CSI. Unfortunately on my car, I just see three white wires going to CSI. I would disconnect the CSI and use plug and ohmmeter to determine which two wires are directly connected. (I would need a needle probe to pierce insulation on the unlabeled wires and see which ones have no resistance between them.
If this disconnect does not stop CSI from firing, then there must be some weird wiring/short taking place providing power through the other CSI terminal.
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