Pulling the motor

[GreenGrizz77]

Hello I’m dealing with the fun PO bs and thus I’m doing the engine swap I had planned a bit earlier than expected. I think we’re all prepared on getting the new engine in bite we hit a snag on getting the old one out, the top tranny bolts are pretty stuck and it’s the worst angle to get a socket on them if I even can. Does anyone have any tips or tricks mind you I don’t have fancy tools and I’m doing this on jack stands on flat dirt thanks for any potential advice

[18Fiatsandcounting]

Is the cylinder head off, or are you pulling the whole engine at once? With the cylinder head off, those top two block-to-bellhousing bolts aren't too bad with a 19mm wrench with the appropriate angle on the box end. Sometimes it helps to remove the lower engine mounts and let the oil pan rest on the crossmember, which gives a better angle on those bolts.

The other trick I use is to get a bunch of 1/2" socket extensions, like 2 feet or more, and use them to reach the bolts from underneath coming in from near the rear of the transmission. With two or three socket extensions, it also gives a little bit of flex like a socket U-joint would, which helps.

I have always removed engine blocks with the cylinder head already removed. Makes life easier.

-Bryan

[GreenGrizz77]

I’m giving the old motor to my mom and stepfather and it’s going to take them awhile to start working on it so I’m a bit weary to crack it open. I haven’t taken the motor mounts off yet so we might try that I was working with a 2ft extension 2 Wobblies and a breaker bar and couldn’t get them to budge but it was hard to hold still. Thanks!

[18Fiatsandcounting]

You can get a better angle when coming from the rear of the transmission if you loosen the rear transmission mount from the underside of the body (two nuts on two studs), and let the rear of the transmission drop a few inches.

-Bryan

[GreenGrizz77]

Thanks if we can’t get it on the next attempt we’ll try this.

[spider2081]

You can get a better angle when coming from the rear of the transmission if you loosen the rear transmission mount from the underside of the body (two nuts on two studs), and let the rear of the transmission drop a few inches.

I remove the 2 13mm nuts holding the rear transmission mount to the floor of the car.
I have done Bryan's suggestion, with a long extension and a universal on the socket/bar. I tape the universal with masking tape to limit the amount of angle it can make. I use a 1/2 drive set up because the breaker bar is longer and the universal is stronger.
Sometime having a jack under the transmission bell housing helps with separating the transmission from the engine. Once the engine is removed and before the jack under the bell housing is lowered, jack the bell housing up to the floor and use something like balling wire to wire to secure it. I use one of the empty top engine bolt holes and the hood latch to wire the bell housing up.

[GreenGrizz77]

The top two bolts were torqued to hell it took two of us under the car and an extended breaker bar but it’s finally out